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  1. Aquarium Sumps EXPLAINED — New Video! Your Hub for Water Filtration and Automation Hardware
  2. https://mdshop.us/Sumps-Explained Today were going to tackle the topic of filter sumps….what they are, how they work and how to choose the best one for your reef tank. Filter sumps aren’t new. They’ve been around since the dawn of reef-keeping. Their original function was to provide biological filtration and aerate the water. The early designs worked like this. First, water is drawn from a surface skimmer and gravity drains it down into the sump. The water is then pumped back to the reef tank using a return pump. Bio media would be suspended on a grate and sprayed with aquarium water. These “trickle” or “wet-dry filters” were based on processes that were derived from much larger industrial wastewater treatment plants. The idea was to keep the bio media suspended in the air to maximize the oxygen level for nitrifying bacteria on the living on the media. Over time, aquarists noticed that if the wet/dry filter was bypassed due to a pump failure or leak, nothing bad really happened. There were no noticeable increases in ammonia or nitrite. That's because most of an aquarium’s nitrifying bacteria live on the rock and sand instead of the biomedia. It was also believed the trickling water would de-gas ammonia out of the aquarium. The idea of degassing ammonia came from an industrial process called “air stripping”. Ammonia could be removed from water by blasting air through a tall contactor as water sprayed over plastic media. The problem is aquariums don’t contain enough ammonia for the process to work. Plus, it requires the pH to be above 10 for the ammonia to be converted into a gas. So, the question is, what are filter sumps good for? Today’s filter sumps function as a hub for all the important water filtration and automation hardware. With a large enough sump, your equipment options are near endless. The sump is the ideal place to connect a circulation pump. You can run it submerged or plumb it externally to save space for other hardware. Protein skimmers are a great addition to your sump and will help keep your tank nice and clean. A filter sump also makes it easy to set-up media reactors and de-nitrifiers. You can either use a “T” off of the main water return line or use a second smaller submersible pump to supply water to it. Sumps give you a place to hide some of your mess and lets you clean up the hoses leading to your tank. The same is true for running chillers. By hooking them up to your sump you can eliminate the need for long unsightly hoses. An automatic top off is one of the key pieces to success in a reef tank as they make sure your salinity stays stable and can give you a chance to relax. Sumps are the perfect location to install your ATO and sumps even come pre-equipped with water level sensors. For high tech reefers, sumps are great for clean installation of probes and other gear. If you prefer a simpler low-tech setup, sumps are great for just plain old filtering! Most sumps contain at least one sock filter which are great for pulling out debris before it can break down in your tank. Most sumps also have a number of baffles that channel water flow through the different compartments. The spaces in between these baffles are perfect for placing filter sponges or bags of media. There's a wide variety of sumps out there to choose from so you are sure to find one that fits your specific needs. Here's what you need to know about picking the right sump for your situation. The first step is to figure out how much space you have available. Measure the width, height and depth of where you are going to place the sump. Don’t forget to measure the size of the opening if you are putting it in a cabinet. It’s important to have enough space above the sump to install a protein skimmer. Double check that you will have enough head room to actually remove the skimmer cup for cleaning. Once you’ve narrowed down the sump models, it’s time to take a look at the features each offers. Some sumps are made for smaller aquariums and have a lower water flow rating. They provide the most basic features without a lot of extras. Larger sumps have more room to add probe holders, multiple filter socks and even space for a refugium. When shopping for a sump, look at all the features each model offers. Chances are there’s more than one sump to choose from. Think about the equipment that you have now, but also keep in mind what you may want to add later. When all the pieces of the filter system fit together, you’ll know which sump to go with. If you still need help deciding on a sump, feel free to send us an email or give us a call and we will be happy to help you out. Don’t forget to like this video and subscribe for more helpful content and as always, take care and happy reefkeeping! SHOP SUMPS: https://www.marinedepot.com/Aquarium_Sumps-FIFRBS-ct.html SHOP IN SUMP SKIMMERS: https://www.marinedepot.com/In_Sump_Protein_Skimmers_for_Aquariums_Reefs-FIPSIS-ct.html
  3. https://https://mdshop.us/FluxRx Today we are going to focus on green hair algae and how to get rid of it using Flux Rx from Blue Life USA Hair algae Derbesia and Bryopsis, have always been a major nuisance for reef aquarists. Given adequate lighting and nutrients, these algae can quickly grow out of control and smother our precious corals. Getting rid of hair algae has always been a hassle. Manual removal is typically the go-to for getting rid of algae. But water changes, media reactors, refugiums, and algae scrubbers are also used to reduce nutrient levels. Once the algae really takes hold, these approaches unfortunately may not be enough. You can also look into stocking fish and inverts that are known to eat algae; however, relying on animals to take care of this issue is often questionable as you can’t guarantee what they will want to eat. Many of these algae eating species have also been known to pick at coral polyps while others such as the sea hare will release toxins when they are scared or dying. If typical methods aren’t solving your hair algae problem, it may be time to look at Flux Rx from Blue Life USA. Fluconazole, which is the active ingredient in Flux Rx, has been used by professional aquarists to remove hair algaes successfully for years. Unfortunately it’s pretty tough to find a reliable source for fluconazole and even more difficult to dose it properly. Blue Life USA Flux Rx puts the algae fighting power of fluconazole into the hands of aquarists in a way that is simple to use. The major bonus of Flux Rx is that it is reef safe. After testing it on our tanks we saw no negative effects on our corals or other sensitive inverts. One thing to keep in mind is that Flux Rx will only target Bryopsis and Derbesia, so it likely won’t take out other types of hair algae like turf algae. The active ingredient in Flux Rx is thought to stop these algaes by blocking important enzymatic pathways and disrupting integrity of the algae’s cell walls. Some reefers have reported that macro algaes can be affected by Flux Rx so if you are running chaeto or other macros in a refugium it would be best to remove them while treating your tank. This also means that if you are running a algae reactor or algae scrubber, you would temporarily need to remove them as well. Always remember to remove media reactors and carbon filters from your system to make sure that it doesn’t immediately remove the Flux Rx from your tank after dosing. It's also recommended to turn your skimmer off when you begin dosing as it will likely begin to overflow. Once the algae starts to break down after about 72 hours and release the nutrients, you can turn your skimmer back on. When dosing, noticeable results may begin in the first couple days of treatment. Certain strains of algae may be a bit more resilient so they may take a bit longer to be affected. After the full 10-14 the results will be apparent. Once you pass the 14 day treatment period, do a 20% water change and feel free to start reintroducing your reactors and filters. It is fairly easy to reintroduce the algae back into your tank so it is a good idea to give any equipment that you are reinstalling a quick wipe down with vinegar and to change out your filter media. Doing so will remove any algae traces that may be left over from before the treatment. Even after the algae is eliminated, its important to continue keeping an eye on nutrient levels as they can open the door to another algae infestation. Blue Life also makes the regenerable medias, Phosphate Fx and Organic Fx to help you out on this front as well. Let us know about your experience will nuisance algae down in the comments below and please share this video if you found it helpful. Don’t forget to like and subscribe, and as always take care and happy reefkeeping. #fluconazole #greenhairalgae #bryopsis Buy Flux Rx at Marine Depot (and read product reviews!): https://www.marinedepot.com/Flux_Rx_Bryopsis_and_Green_Hair_Algae_Treatment_Blue_Life_USA-BL0118-FIADAL-vi.html Buy Blue Life USA's Regenerable Resin Medias at Marine Dpeot: https://www.marinedepot.com/search?tag=regen-media-blue-life-usa -- EXTRA SPECIAL THANKS -- Sea Hare Photo: Wilhelm Blenny Photo: Jayhem
  4. VIDEO: Fluconazole for Green Hair Algae and Bryopsis How To Treat Your Tank with Flux Rx from Blue Life USA
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  7. MarineDepot

    Fishless Cycling a New Aquarium

    Fishless Cycling a New AquariumA Recipe for Success from DrTim's Aquatics!
  8. What Is The Right PAR For Vibrant Coral Coloration and Growth?NEW VIDEO! Reef Aquarium Lighting Guide
  9. https://mdshop.us/Light-Guide Properly lighting a reef tank is one of the most important considerations when planning a new aquarium or upgrading your lighting set-up. There’s a lot of information to sift through if you’re looking for answers online. The science of light and corals is a very complex and can get confusing, especially when you looking for straight-forward information. At Marine Depot, we get thousands of questions every month. Reef lighting is certainly at the top of the list! We are commonly asked, “What type of lighting do I need for good coral growth?” and “Which lighting fixture is right for my tank?” Although there can be a simple answer to these questions, it's important to understand the science that informs these decisions as well. Pretty much everyone knows that light is critical for keeping SPS and LPS corals. Many new reefers tend to blast the corals with as much light as possible, which research on captive corals shows isn’t ideal. In the early days of reef-keeping, aquarists bought the biggest, brightest lighting they could find. Everyone knew coral reefs thrived under direct sunlight. So, DIY reefers were trying to hang the power of a hundred suns over their tanks. That’s what the public aquariums were doing, so why not try the same thing at home? But it didn’t always work. The lights over-heated the water, some corals stopped growing, and others were burned. When it came to light, more was definitely not better. Today we understand a lot more about the lighting requirements of corals and other photosynthetic invertebrates. We tried to distill all this information down for you to make choosing a light less of a headache. The major factors to keep in mind when looking for a light are wireless controllability, programming modes, and a sleek form. However, the king of all these factors is the light’s PAR, which is the first thing you should look at. PAR stands for Photosynthetic Active Radiation. It is the range of light wavelengths used by symbiotic algae living inside coral tissue. PAR is the engine that drives photosynthesis and it’s photosynthesis that feeds coral. If your lighting rig is bright but doesn’t provide the right light spectrum, all your doing is burning electricity. Quality beats intensity! PAR covers the visible lighting spectrum but is heavy in the blue (400 – 500 nm) and red (600 – 700 nm) wavelengths. A light can be bright but not provide PAR. PAR is measured in “micromole photons per square meter per second” units. Thankfully there’s no math involved in figuring out a fixture’s PAR rating. Most of today’s top LED light manufacturers provide PAR specs for their fixtures making life a lot easier. They get these measurements by using a PAR meter. The sensor is first placed in the water, under the light. Readings are then taken at various depths and distances from the center of the LED array. PAR readings are plotted to show how the intensity of PAR drops as you move further from the light. You can use the manufacturer’s PAR data to get a rough idea of the amount of light your tank will receive with a particular light fixture. You can also take your own measurements with a PAR meter. PAR meters are a little pricey, but they let you see PAR levels at different levels in your reef. It’s very helpful for determining where to best place your corals or make adjustment to the lights. So what’s the right amount of PAR for corals? Marine biologists have conducted PAR measurements on tropical reefs where SPS and LPS corals thrive. The PAR levels range from around 150 to over 450 across the world. But what level will satisfy most corals in a home aquarium? Captive coral researcher Dana Riddle discovered that the ideal average PAR range for corals is 100-200 PAR. Too much PAR is both ineffective and actually inhibits photosynthesis, potentially damaging coral as well. 200-400 PAR will bring out vibrant coloration but sacrifices a little coral growth. Research suggests the corals may even develop brighter pigments to protect against excess lighting. The big takeaway is captive corals are happiest with moderate light intensity. Too much light will inhibit or harm the corals. There is no absolute rule on the perfect PAR for all corals, but a good starting point is 150 to 250 PAR. So, how do you choose the right light fixture for your tank? Start by looking at the PAR specs. They’ll give you an idea of the maximum PAR at specific depths. There’s also nothing wrong with going with a more powerful fixture as long as you can dial it back, which is especially helpful as you corals acclimate to a new lighting system. If you can’t find PAR data for a particular light, search online and see how other aquarists are using the fixture. Learning from the experiences of others is always valuable. SHOP LIGHTING: https://mdshop.us/Lighting WATCH LIGHTING VIDEOS: https://mdshop.us/Lighting-Videos READ LIGHTING ARTICLES: https://mdshop.us/Lighting-Articles
  10. https://mdshop.us/Phosphate-Checkers Today we are going to take a look at how to use the Hanna Phosphate checkers along with GFO to monitor and control and phosphate levels in your tank. There are a number of test kits on the market that will let you check on your phosphate levels but some of our favorites are the Hanna Instruments Phosphate checkers. Hanna offers two different checkers: the Low Range Phosphate and the Marine Ultra Low Range Phosphate Colorimeter, both of which operate similarly and are easy to use. These will let you know exactly what kind of phosphate levels you are dealing with. Check out our video on phosphates that we linked below to get a better idea of what these levels can indicate.The standard Low Range Phosphate checker will be more than enough for most aquarists. It measures phosphates levels between 0.00 ppm and 2.50 ppm with a resolution of .01 ppm and a accuracy of +- 0.04 ppm. The Ultra Low Range checker measures levels between .00 ppm to .090 ppm with a resolution of .001 ppm and a accuracy of +-0.02 ppm. The Ultra Low Range checker, having a smaller window of measurement and a higher degree of accuracy means that the ULR checker will be better for those really trying to draw a bead on their phosphates and get their levels down to zero. Using the Hanna Phosphate checker is pretty simple. The first step is to turn the checker on by pressing the center button. Once the screen is flashing “Add, C1” you are ready to get testing. Fill the cuvette 10 ml of water from your tank, and place it in the checker and close it. Press the button and wait until the screen reads “Add C2.” Remove the cuvette, add the appropriate reagent to it, and shake it for two minutes. Once all the powder is dissolved, place the cuvette back into the checker and hold the button until a timer appears on the display. Once the timer runs down, your phosphate level will be displayed. The only difference in using the standard phosphate checker verses Phosphorus ULR is that each checker has its own reagent to add to the water during testing. One of the most common ways to deal with phosphate issues is to use GFO. GFO or granular ferric oxide will bind the phosphates in your water to it as they pass through. Because of this, the GFO needs to have sufficient water flow. There are a couple ways that you can achieve the necessary flow in your system. The easiest way is to simply fill a filter media bag with it and place the bag in a high flow area of your sump or filter. Keep in mind that water takes the path of least resistance, so since you aren’t actively channeling the water through the GFO, its going to be a bit less effective at absorbing your phosphates. Also remember that GFO tends to have fairly small grains, so it is important to put it into a media bag with a small enough mesh size to prevent it from spreading through your tank. The second way to effectively employ GFO is through the use of a media reactor. For this method we will need a basic media reactor, a feed pump, some tubing, and it is usually a good idea to keep a ball valve on hand as well. First things first, we need to open up the reactor and remove the top sponge, Next we just fill the reactor with the appropriate amount of GFO and replace the top sponge and lid. GFO can have different filtration capacities depending on the quality of it and different size tanks will certainly require different volumes for it to be utilized safely and effectively. To figure out exactly how much GFO you need to use, the best practice is to simply follow the instructions on the specific GFO you are using; however, we do have a calculator on our site which we will link below to help you. Once your reactor is back together, attach your tubing to your inlet and outlets. In terms of pumps, the required flow rate again will vary depending on your system. If your pump is too strong, you can grind the GFO down on itself and it can blow out of the reactor and into your tank. If you pump isn’t strong enough, the GFO wont move enough and it will fuse to itself overtime, creating a solid block. What we really need to be aiming for is a slow sort of simmer, where you can see most if not all the GFO moving slowly and gently, just enough so that it doesn’t fuse. I will usually try to get a pump that may be just slightly stronger than what I think i might need, and tune it down to the desired rate using a ball valve. Hanna Phosphate Checkers: https://mdshop.us/HannaPhosphateCheckers GFO / Phosphate Removal Media: https://mdshop.us/PhosphateRemovalMedia GFO Media Calculator: https://mdshop.us/GFO-Calculator How to Lower Phosphate Video: https://youtu.be/fd55peZgBCE GFO Media Reactors: https://mdshop.us/Media-Reactors Use Hanna Checkers to Dial-In 2-Part Dosing Video: https://youtu.be/z7jgm6HMyzA
  11. How to Control Phosphate Using Hanna Phosphate Checkers and GFO MediaPLUS: New gear from GHL, Eheim, Coral Essentials, and Brightwell Aquatics!
  12. MarineDepot

    Reserve Your Reefer Deluxe Today!

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